The capital of Ningxia Province in China's center, Yinchuan is an interesting and lively city and well worth exploring. Heavily muslim, it has a population of about 700,000 and was founded in the 11th c. It's long been of strategic importance and although small, offers a lot to see.
Places to stay include the Rainbow Bridge Hotel (0951) 691 8888, and Ningxia International Hotel (672 8688), which are fine if more local than international in style. The city is dominated by it's Haibao Pagoda, which dates back 1,500 years: you can still climb to the top and from here get great views over the Helan Mountains. There is also the Arab style Naguan Mosque, with huge green domes and minarets, which dates from 1915 and was rebuilt in 1981 after suffering greatly during the cultural revolution.
The Ningxia Provincial Museum here is also very good, with many relics from the Western Xia period (1038-1227) which really was the cultural heyday of the city. This period is also remembered at the Mausoleums of the Western Xia Kings, with giant earth mounds and museum displays also here sited about 20 km east of Yinchuan. The Helan Mountains are good trekking territory and there is a resort at Gunzhong Pass. Cliff carvings over 4,000 years old can easily be viewed here.
Food wise the rainbow Bridge Hotel is the best bet, but good Islamic food (kebabs, nan breads, excellent vegetables and fruit) can be had all over the city, although the best are around Jiefang Jie, with many restaurants providing dance and local performances, with the Yingbinlou Islamic Restaurant being especially good. There is a good night market here too, with vendors selling lamb kebabs, and bowls of fresh yoghurt with spices. Such delicacies can also be found along with local muslim arts and crafts at the markets in the old part of town on Liqun Jie.
Further out from Yinchuan lies Sand Lake, where you can swim, ride camels, and stroll amongst the sand dunes, and at Qingtonxia, with Tibetan dagobas right next to the Yellow River, dating from the 14th c. It's an open air desert location where many of the enigmatic desert scenes in a lot of Chinese films were shot. Also, at Zhongwei, you can explore the area of Shapotou, a desert research area, again camel rides, expeditions and trekking are all available here as are boat and raft trips along the Yellow River.
