Xining is the capital of Qinghai province, and a great stopover for a visit to China's largest inland lake, Qinghaihu, a bird watchers paradise. It is also possible to get up into Tibet from here, although steep, the road (originally dating back over 2,200 years) offers a unique way into Tibet and offers spectacular views as the plains give way to the Tibetan heights. Xining has long been a melting pot of different cultures, Tibetan Buddhism mixing it up with Islam and Chinese Confucism, and the town is an interesting mix of mosques and monasteries. The Great Mosque of Dongguan (no not the Guangdong Dongguan) is here and is huge: a prayer hall some 1100 square metres in size within a 8,500 sqm courtyard. Making a statement then. The delightfully named Kumbum Monastery dates back to 1560 and covers 100 acres, the site is revered by Lamaists as their most holy shrine: the founder of the Yellow Hat sect, Tsongkhapa, was born here.

All Lamas receive religious instruction here. Back to the Lake, Spring is the best time as migratory species travel back and forth, with passerines from the Mediterranean, Europe, Russia and South East Asia all passing through. However the resident species are also numerous with waders, duck and various other waterfowl all being seen. It is a national park, hunting is prohibited. A small hotel exists close to the lake, otherwise you will need to stay in Xining and travel the 140 miles to get there. It is wise to enquire beforehand as to room availability.