Nanjing is the capital of Jiangsu Province, about two hours drive north-west of Shanghai. It is blessed with China's most productive land, and is home to Asia's largest inland port, handling much of the Yangtse's shipping. It's close proximity to Shanghai should not be taken as evidence of it being a second tier city - Nanjing is very much a player in it's own right, and, rather like last months featured city (Xi'an), was also once the capital of China - for six dynasties! Nanjing possesses massive city walls, dating back 2,500 years, and numerous towers and temples - the Drum Tower (1382) and the nearby Bell Tower (1388). Shanghai is just a glitzy upstart. The modern Father of China, Dr. Sun Yatsen, has his mausoleum set in the attractive woodlands just out of the city, while the over-hyped Memorial of the Nanjing Massacre - a sad reflection of what man can do to fellow man - is located on Memorial Hill. One gets the feeling now may be time for China to concentrate less on this and more on Nanjing's positive features - the Japanese atrocity does tend to dominate Nanjing's history unfortunately.

Far more uplifting is the Ming Dynasty Palace on Changjiang Road and the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom History Museum on Zhonghua Road.

Nanjing possesses many hotels of note, such as the Hilton (025) 480 8888, Sheraton (025) 666 8888, the Shangri-La (025) 880 2888 and the Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza (025) 471 8888.

Bars? Nanjing has a thriving expat community - many hang out at Danny's Irish Pub on the 4th floor of the Sheraton; the Blue Sky Bar at 77 Shanghai Road; and the famous "Blowing in the Wind" bar, located opposite the Nanj ing University Hotel. Of course, there is the intriguingly named "Orgies" on 202 North Zhongshan Road (next to the Hongqiao Hotel). We went prepared in togas, carrying bottles of ancient herbal love potions and bags of condoms, but they actually had a live band with a Filipino singer who (regrettably) kept all her clothes on and didn't accost us! We also liked "The Swede & Kraut", just off Shanghai Road at 14 Nan Xui Cun, providing hearty Scandinavian grub, while Henry's Home at 33 Huaqiao Road is great for Western food & beer.

Wanna boogie? Casablanca's in the Hilton's basement on Zhongshan Dong Road and the local "Time Tunnel" (354 Taiping Nan Road) are the places to go to impress the opposite sex with your cha-cha skills. For the more adventurous, check out Scarlets (Luanshi Jiaren) - just tell the taxi driver and they'll know where to go!

Nanjing is not just a good evening out but a busy commercial centre with great infrastructure and facilities. It should strongly be considered as a manufacturing base for your China production needs - and if based in Shanghai - well, it makes a great weekend away for a bit of Chinese culture - ancient and modern.