Around China In One Website


Foreigners Not So Welcome?

  •  

 

 

 

He had no clue he was in danger when the beer bottle smashed into his face. He had been about to step into another cab ride home after another night's drinking at Sanlitun, Beijing's infamous bar street. No posturing, no threats, no gut-wrenching realization he had a fight on his hands. Just the impact of cold hard glass.

 

 

As he went down, his assailant and two other Chinese men set to finishing the job. Kicks and punches, mostly kicks, to all the places raging instinct strikes for: head, ribs, and groin. It was late, not quite one in the morning, but on Sanlitun Street that still left a clutch of witnesses at hand. Not one, foreign or Chinese, interfered. Not until that tacit moment when the attackers had spent themselves, grave injury done, did another foreigner wade in to push them off.

 

 

But the victim's night of horror was just beginning. Helped to a hospital, he learned in a delirium of pain that no medical treatment would be forthcoming until all proper papers and proof of payment had been verified. Eleven hours passed until doctors finally attended him and assessed the damage: a shattered cheekbone, nose broken in two places, a welter of assorted fractures and contusions. He came to after surgery with two steel plates holding his head together.

 

 

The police are never far off at Sanlitun; they know better. And the assailants, compromised by a lack of planning, were soon rounded up. Before being hauled off to jail, they were asked what had prompted such a brutal assault. After all, they hadn't taken any money. "No reason."

 

 

Once out of the hospital, he dutifully filed a report at his embassy, to learn that he was the fourth of his countrymen to make such a claim in the last week. But by no means is this a matter of Germans being singled out. The diversity of victims, and the spike in violent assaults over roughly the past year, bear the marks of unreasoning, unspecific anti-foreign backlash.

 

 

Should you listen to an expat reeling off his laundry list of discontents with Beijing, and should you finally ask rhetorically why on earth he stays, he'll tell you that the city is safe. So what if traffic can ride a green arrow through your walk sign, and hepatitis lurks in every mid-market hotpot joint, and you're shaving minutes off your life expectancy with every lung-full? For as long as even the oldest China hands can remember, Beijing has stood superior to any comparable western metropolis in one very appreciable statistic -  lack of violence. Maybe some golden boy from Brussels doesn't see it, but his cousin from Amsterdam does. And those of us who have even casual acquaintance with the mean streets of Los Angeles, New  York, London, where the potential for a wrong look to end in bloodshed hums like a lethal current through public life, for us its absence is tangible here in the Big Smoggy.

 

 

But those days of pax probiscum are winding down now, and only in retrospect will we appreciate how lucky we were. All the years of twenty-something kids earning more with a little lazy English teaching than a Chinese middle-age professional humping it in a dismal cubicle sixty hours a week, or a son of the revolution hawking his produce night and day for three months. All the presuming on China's "catch up" policy and the official good will enforced from the top down.

 

 

And god forbid anyone take this as some sandwich-board warning to get out of Dodge, or hunker down in a lao wai enclave. There's been no sea-change in national sentiment, French torch-dousers notwithstanding. You'll still get the friendly, awkward goobers dying to trot out their hard-won English and possibly even make friends with a foreigner. The lazy susan will still spin and stop with the new dish pointed at you.

 

 

And this is not to suggest that the emerging problem is economic in nature, or even political. It's psychological. It's metaphysical. Nothing exists without its opposite. No laughter without tears, no pride without shame. That's why Americans can't really be rich; they think being poor is taking the bus and having last year's cell phone. Who truly thought all this elaborate politeness, all the English acquisition, all the status ads featuring Eurasians posing as Chinese, had no shadow? How long can you ride on being with the folks who brought high-rises, plumbing, cars, computers, forcing  a proud people to concede they aren't products of the most advanced civilization, the only civilization the world has ever seen?

 

 

The opposite was always there, and growing muscle demands to be flexed. Nationalism nothing. Take it a level deeper, to our apish, innate, inescapable pride of origin. Vonnegut's biggest, scariest Granfaloon. We're white. We're yellow. Yay. You're not. Booo.

 

 

So rather than some patronizing tsk tsk with an appeal to nobler instincts, much less a call for revenge or other such ignorance, some historical perspective. For Chinese in the West, the shadow came first, and its opposite has been neither overt nor over-abundant in the offing. In 1871, there were less than two hundred Chinese in Los Angeles. Segregated by default from whites, they were also corralled by the Mexican residents to Calle de Los Negros, N-word Alley, the squalid backrooms on a street fronted by nothing but brothels, saloons, and flophouses.

 

 

On October 24th, California's first major race riot erupted, when a rainbow coalition mob, on the flimsiest provocation, beset LA's tiny, defenseless Chinese community. Here's a brief sample from Fradkin's The Seven States of California:

 

 

There was no doubt, however, about the mob's frenzy and rapaciousness during the riot. The crowd, including a constable, fired at two Chinese women, wounding one. They chopped holes in roofs and poured gunfire into crowded apartments where women and children huddled. When men fled into the street, they were immediately cut down by a barrage of gunfire.

 

Other wounded Chinese were hauled from apartments, kicked, stabbed , and then hanged. A young Chinese doctor was shot in the mouth, robbed, and then hanged. Even a fourteen-year-old boy was hanged. The most commonly cited number of Chinese deaths was nineteen.

 

 

A bunch of cowboys in Rock Springs, Wyoming, butchered 28 Chinese fourteen years later, and a vigilante mob almost succeeded in expelling all Seattle's 400 Chinese residents a year after that, stopped only be two companies of militia. Ancient history? How about the anti-Chinese riots in Indonesia eleven years ago? Sure, maybe that's all the unfortunate interplay of economics and Realpolitik, horrible, yet bearing scant resemblance to the beatings going on at Sanlitun. So ask a teacher, or better yet a student at a Melbourne, LA or Birmingham public school what the FOBs (Fresh Off the Boat Chinese) can look forward to.

 

 

Not a rationalization, or even an apologia, mind you. Just a supposition of the miraculous, that the shadow of our welcome in China has been so faint for so long.

 

 


Comments

What are you trying to say?

It's a nice introspective piece on xenophobia, safety, race, pride, arrogance, humility. Everyone sits down once in a while and says, hey, when you think of it....

Hey, when you think of it, their racism is not so different, and probably not as bad what we (whoever "we" is) have dished out to them. So maybe we deserve it... hmmm... and when you think of it, it's hard for them to see us strutting around, arrogant foreigners humiliating a proud people... perhaps we should consider ourselves lucky that we came at a low point in China's history of xenophobia....

But none of this cuts any ice with me. To see random violence directed at people on account of their race or skin colour is unacceptable in any society. Maybe we're too weak or helpless to stop it -- it's not easy to stand up against the brutality of popular prejudice -- but we should never wallow in this simplistic "Well, it happens everywhere, given how bad we are to them, we should consider ourselves lucky how nice they are to us" kind of reasoning. Western society has nothing to crow about, but that is no reason to acquiesce in or make excuses for xenophobia or violence wherever we encounter it.

So what do you want to do

So what do you want to do about it? Start a vigilante group? Stump for some tough legislation? I'm afraid between ideals and action, perspective is your only option. It leads to peace, if not a perfect world.

ya well you know what?

i killed a man once....

WoW doesn't count, Anon.

WoW doesn't count, Anon.

No surprises

I visited China about 10 years ago myself - on a business trip so I didn't see the Great Wall or anything like that. Just a lot (and I mean a LOT) of factories as I was visiting one of the industrial regions. Of course, in a very real sense I was visiting the "real" China, where actual Chinese people lived and worked. While I was there I was never allowed outside when not accompanied as I was told it was highly dangerous for Europeans to be out and about on their own. I did, on one afternoon venture out alone and quickly realised it was a bad idea. Luckily nothing physical happened, but there was, without doubt a great deal of animosity.

Beijing violence

I saw some fights in Sanlitun back in the day. The bloodiest ones were between Chinese, however, I almost got knifed once for trying to break one up between an American and an African.

Whatever the case, pretending that anti-foreigner violence is a trifling thing compared to what Chinese went through in America is to ignore history. The murders of Westerners from the 19th century through the expulsion of all foreigners following the revolution were no less brutal than what Chinese faced in the West.

Also, I seem to remember some pretty rough riots back in 99. White folks who make light of this stuff should get in line to get their own asses kicked, because I say "no thank you" to that kind of treatment.

So why don't you go take one for the team? If it makes some thugs feel better in Sanlitun, wouldn't you have done well for everyone?

No one's pretending

No one's pretending anti-foreign violence is trifling, Welmer, although I can understand how a quick read of this post might make one assume so. I had to have some point to reporting on the increasing anti-foreign violence at places like Sanlitun, so I put it in context of historical anti-Chinese violence, and pointed out that, at least since the "Opening Up", anti-foreign violence has been remarkably rare, considering human nature.

Wow, why did you killed

Wow, why did you killed people?
--------------------------------

I think its because we were weak.

it is fiction or based on

it is fiction or based on true story? it is a great story. can any one answer my question please?

True story.

True story.

interesting

What a brutal story! But fascinating.
Zenerex

Post new comment

The content of this field is kept private and will not be shown publicly.
Captcha
This question is used to make sure you are a human visitor and to prevent spam submissions.
Copy the characters (respecting upper/lower case) from the image.

There is a lot of information on this site. Just type in your keyword and go!


China Expat City Guide
& Business Directory

Select City



OUR SPONSORS :
Dezan Shira & Associates
China Expat has been fully sponsored by Dezan Shira & Associates since 2001 as a complimentary cultural and travel service to expatriates in China. For details of the China legal, tax and business advisory services the firm offers, from individual income tax calculations and filings to the establishment of businesses, please visit the firm at www.dezshira.com or email your enquiry to info@dezshira.com


Direct HR - China Recruitment


www.echinacities.com - the only China guide you'll need


sanzhen