Sited in Mongolia's mid-north, UB is home to about 1/3 of all Mongolians, and is a quirky, laid back city not without it's charms. Unfortunately dominated by the massive Soviet built coal-fired power station, it nonetheless possesses a wel­ter of internet cafes, bars, and some excellent museums and monasteries. It's a good place to wander around before getting out into the majestic surroundings of the Terelj national park that surrounds the city. Home to just 750,000 Mongolians, the population swells during the frigid winter months - the city outskirts turning into a mass ger camp as nomads seek to get closer to the amenities of civilisation when the temperature drops below -30.

Summertime however is sunny and hot, with big blue skies, and the milky way hanging just overhead at night. It's light here until about 11pm - you're technically in Siberia this far north, characterised by the presence of larch trees that skirt the cities main avenues. Soviet architecture is prevalent here, and not least amongst the hotels. Places we've checked out and can recommend include the Marco Polo Hotel (+976 310 803) the excellent Hotel Urge (313 772) and the New Capital Hotel (458 235) - although it is also worth wandering about. Even during Nadaam you should be able to find somewhere, although the inevitable price hikes occur during the festival period. UB's bars and internet cafes are great sources of infor­mation too - with holiday treks, guides and jeeps and drivers all offering their services from these locations. Hunt around, ask, and you'll be able to pick up a tourist guide - most often than not a University student during a summer job - couple this with a car and driver and the country is yours to explore.

Peace Avenue is the main drag to find bars - there is a large German beer keller here - with home brew - and a rather tired Irish Pub. Pick of the pack though is the legendary Marco Polo restaurant, not actually a restaurant at all (that's just a cover) but home to some quite statuesque and stunning local girls. Essentially it's a strip joint, and never did a glass of the local Chinggis Beer or Vodka taste better than accompa­nied by some quite spectacular views. A mainly diary diet leads to voluptuous crea­tures, and the Marco Polo does not disap­point (USD4 entrance fee, at the back of the otherwise deserted restaurant).

More cultured, if not quite as sexy, is the Mongolian Museum of Natural Histo­ry, with an excellent collection of the many and varied dinosaurs that the Gobi has been revealing of late, with other impressive wings devoted to covering meteorites, camels, and flora & fauna. The National Museum of Mongolian history is also a worthwhile stop, outlining of course everything to do with Genghis Khan and the Mongol rule of 1200's. The Winter Palace of Bogd Khan, home of Mongolia's last living Buddha, is truly spectacular and a 20 minute drive out of the city.

Otherwise, relax over a Chinghis Beer in the open air cafes on the main streets and enjoy the chilled out ambience of an underrated Asian capital.

CE