One of the delights of the hospitality scene in Shanghai is that many of the charming old hotels from the early 20th century still stand – and more importantly, still take bookings. Because of its slightly unusual political status central Shanghai was largely spared damage during WW2, and you can still stay in many of these redoubtable old buildings. Graham Thompson of China Briefing Media Ltd explores the fascinating history of the four most famous old hotels.
If you had come to Shanghai in the 1930s you would have had the choice of several of grandest hotels in Asia. As a contemporary guidebook put it, “Shanghai offers ample hotel and hotel-apartment accommodation, with a wide variety of locations and tariffs”. On the other hand, some Chinese observers of the time felt these foreign buildings were inappropriate. A 1932 local guidebook said, “these places have no relationship to us Chinese and besides the upper class atmosphere in these Western hotels is very solemn, every move and gesture seems completely regulated.” This is all maybe something to contemplate over a drink in the bar of the Peace or the Park !
The Astor Hotel (now the Pujiang Hotel)
Opened – 1846
Address – 15 Huangpu Lu, Shanghai
Telephone – 00 86 21 6324 2179
1934 rates – $12 single, $20 double, $30 suite
(these rates are in Chinese Mexican dollars, then roughly US$0.34).
2005 rates – RMB100 for backpackers dormitory, RMB480-1280 for rooms, RMB2080-2800 for suites
(all modern rates are indicative only)
http://www.pujianghotel.com
This was the first Western hotel in China. Originally established as the Richards Hotel in 1846 in another location, just three years after the city was opened to foreign trade, it was moved and rebuilt as the Astor Hotel in 1860. The Kadoorie family reconstructed the hotel in 1910. Renamed the Pujiang Hotel in 1959, it has maintained its old style while acting as partly a backpackers’ hostel.
After a recent RMB7m renovation of its 35 VIP rooms, the hotel decided it would rather have no star rating than be underrated by city officials who care more about the lack of modern facilities than cultural significance. “Given the limited space and the fact that we are housed in a historical building, we cannot afford modern facilities such as a swimming pool and a tennis court,” said Wu Jiaming, the hotel’s VP told local media. “So it would be a waste of time to ask to be reevaluated.” But that didn’t stop the hotel setting prices ranging up RMB1280 per night. “This is a reasonable price, reflecting the true value of the hotel,” said Wu.
The hotel hosted many important historical events. On July 26, 1882, the city’s first electric power appeared in the Astor’s Flower Garden Annex. In 1901, the hotel also broke new ground with the first automatic telephone equipment in Shanghai, and the first sound film from the West was projected there. In addition, the Astor hosted China’s first ball, helping to bring to a close the tradition that women should not attend social activities.
In its long history the hotel has also welcomed distinguished guests including Albert Einstein in 1922, and Charlie Chaplin in 1931 and 1936. It is said that Chiang Kai-shek had his last dinner there before withdrawing to Taiwan.
The Cathay Hotel (now the Peace Hotel)
Opened – 25 September 1929
Address – 23 Nanjing Dong Lu, Shanghai
Telephone – 00 86 21 6329 1888
1934 rates – on application
2005 rates – RMB600-1200 single, RMB800-1200 double, RMB1600-3300 suites.
The main building on the north side of Nanjing Lu was built by Sassoons, the great trading house, whose fortune was built originally on opium trading and arms-trading before being sunk into Shanghai real estate. It offered guests a private plumbing system fed by a spring on the outskirts of town, marble baths with silver taps and lavatories imported from Britain. Designed by architects Palmer and Turner, the Cathay was the pride of owner Sir Victor Sassoon, who lived in the large apartment under the roof. This had 360-degree views and was paneled in dark oak, resembling an English club, where he entertained lavishly. Sir Victor preferred the company of chorus girls to debutantes, and toward the end of his life married his American nurse, who inherited his entire fortune.
Noel Coward is supposed to have been staying here, recovering from flu, when he completed the play Private Lives, in just four days. Another noted playwright, George Bernard Shaw, stayed in the Cathay in 1933. Tragedy came to the hotel in August 1937 when a Chinese bomber, attacking Japanese shipping on the river, accidentally dropped its drops onto the street outside, killing 1198 people and injuring 1318. The hotel is, of course, also famous for its Jazz Bar, although the band now playing are the not the original renowned musicians.
The North Building reopened in 1956, and the South Building (the old Palace) in 1965. It is now operated by the Jin Jiang hotel group. A few months ago, the hotel was set as the backdrop for the historical movie The White Countess.
The Palace Hotel
(now the south wing of the Peace Hotel)
Opened – 1906
1934 rates – single $12, double $24
2005 rates – n/a
The Palace Hotel was built in 1906, again by the Kadoories, and is the oldest building on the Bund. It had a legendary roof garden destroyed by fire in 1914, where you could eat and drink while watching the river traffic go by. Fortunately the hotel itself escaped most of the fire damage, a lovely lobby with its original woodwork and marble still in place. The building is now the South Wing of the Peace Hotel.
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