August 1st 2008 will mark a tremendous day for China’s tourist industry, bringing scores of foreign visitors to the country for the first time. The Beijing Olympics do not start until the 8th, but a week earlier in eastern Xinjiang Province people will flock to Tian Shan (天山or Heavenly Mountains) a few hundred miles east of Urumqi (乌鲁木齐) to watch a rare total solar eclipse. The best viewing sites around are expected to be in Yiwu (伊吾) and nearby Hami (哈密), both for their geographical location and tendencies to be cloud-free. In order to help our readers plan, China Expat went there to scout out the area.

Of the two towns, Hami is more of a city and has a beautiful hotel, the Hami Binguan (哈密宾馆, 902-223-3140). It is really a treat to find such a good place to stay in an area where many options are fairly basic at best. In addition, it is quite large—but be warned that companies have been filling the rooms, still more than a year out. For information on things to do in the area there is also a really excellent book called Discover Hami put out by the Hami District Travel Bureau (哈密地区旅游局, 902-236-0438) and printed through the Shanghai People’s Fine Arts Publishing House (上海人民美术出版社). If you can find it the book is amazingly complete.

Yiwu (or just outside the town) is considered to be the prime location for viewing, but it is quite small and only has one reasonable hotel option, the Yiwu Binguan (伊吾宾馆,902-672-1210). It is not exactly luxurious, but is adequate enough and saves you the two-hour trip from Hami on the day of the event. Be aware that it is small and if you are planning to go you should call immediately, and possibly offer a bit extra to see if you can convince them to hold a room. You will probably have to wire money to their account to reserve in advance.

If the first two fail, the last option is Balikun (巴里坤), also about two hours from Yiwu. The city is picturesque, set in the middle of snow capped mountains with an ancient city wall. The best bet is the Balikun Binguan (巴里坤宾馆, 902-682-6677), also a small affair. Expect a visit from the friendly PSB officers (no seriously, they are) who register all foreigners. All three towns have other options available that are quite basic and you may want to ask the better hotels about them if there are no rooms left. As a last resort you can take a tent and camp in the mountains, which is relatively easy to do, or even try to stay with someone in town if you make friends quickly.

In addition to the eclipse, the road to Yiwu is quite beautiful with desert surrounded by the snowy Tian Shan in every direction. There is plenty of hiking to do in the area if you pull over and start wandering off in any direction. About 10 km outside of town is a nice lake that is worth exploring. Just before entering there is also a striking mosque with a more Chinese-style wall outside proclaiming the wonders of the one-child policy. Yiwu itself is known to have some of the best lamb in the province, so make sure to give it a try.

Before or after the big event you can also make the trip to Mongolia, only a few hours away, or visit the Dunhuang Caves in Gansu Province (a little farther). With so much to do the region is worth a visit even if you cannot make it next August. If you can get out next year, enjoy yourself, solar eclipses don’t come along too often, and even more rarely in such a perfect setting! CE