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Lhoka: A Kinder, Gentler Tibet
Once you’ve seen the Potala and bought a thangka, Lhasa may soon grow tiresome. There is no capital today, however exotic-sounding to Westerners, that can resist the pressure to be another bland outpost of the WTO. No Starbucks or McDonald’s in Lhasa, yet, but there are clones. Advanced tourists take warning, and roll downhill a few hours to Lhoka: milder, more lush, less developed, and more authentically Tibetan than what Lhasa has become.
Lhoka, where Lokesvara, Lord of the World, became a monkey, slept with a demon, and sired the original Tibetan (Don’t worry; they’re proud of it.) Lhoka, where the Tubo kings lie entombed, by three of Tibet’s four sacred mountains. “Lhoka”, to which the travel agent will stare at you quizzically until you ask her to do a Google search for “Yarlung River Scenic Area”.
Watching over the Yarlung River, Yumbulhakang is Tibets’s first palace, built for its first king, Nyetri Tsanpo, who descended from the heavens in the second century BCE.
A dagoba at Samye Temple. Samye Monastery was built on the north bank of the Yarlung River, under orders of King Detsan, by Indian master Padmasambava, who designed the layout as a replica of the Buddhist cosmos.
Built during the 16th century Phadru Dynasty, Nhamseling is one of Tibet’s earliest manors, a beautiful yet grim relic of Tibet’s feudal days.
Khamadang Monastery has had three sect-changes since it was built in the eleventh century. The second was under the auspices of drum-beating, chanting Mokhi Likhi Drolma, the only Tibetan woman to found a sect.
Half way up holy Mount Khachu (bless you) are two sacred hot springs, whose waters heal all that goes on two or four feet.
Holy lake Yamdrok Yumtso, at 4500 meters, is devoid of water skiers but a haven for wild duck and geese, who nest on its shores.
The celestial lake during spring time.
A teenage nun of the Samding Monastery, built on the shores of Lake Yamdrok Yumtso, the only monastery in Tibet traditionally hosted by a female Living Buddha.
The reason no one knows where Shangri La is: every other Tibetan valley seems a likely candidate.
The many faces of Lhoka, broad and proud as the mountains they look upon.
Nothing in Tibet, not even farming, is done without a little religious flair.
Related posts:
- The Troubles of Old Tibet
- Patrick French – Tibet, Tibet
- Just in case you get sent to: Zhongdian
- Lhasa to Everest Base Camp
- Lake Namtso – Close to Heaven
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Great pictures again ! Tibet appears like another world, far from the economic system which controls us.
I take it you've never been to the Kaidi Club in Lhasa.
Dalai Lama is a man of abiding wisdom and compassion, an inspiration and moral compass, a beacon of calm in a frenetic modern world. If one word sums up what Tibet means to the West it is this: purity.
Wonderful places!
Whaddya mean the destiny is full of disasters and losses? You have a crystal ball to go with your glass eye?
China ia a wonderful land with unique culture. it is probably like no one else, no wonder it allures thousands of people who are eager to visit it. too bad the destiny of China is full of disasters and losses( still, I dream of visiting this mysterious country.
I dream of visiting this mysterious country.