Carry On Up The Yangtze

The Yangtze River is one of the world’s mightiest waterways – 6,300km in length, and stretching from Himalayan origins in the Chinese – Tibetan mountains of Qinghai (Amdo), heading south then dramatically making a U-turn to cross the entire nation and empty out near Shanghai. The 3^rd largest river in the world, it is Asia’s largest, compared to the Mekong (4,350km) and Ganges (2510km), with whom it shares similar beginnings. In fact, in the north of Yunnan, the Mekong and Yangtze run along parallel valleys – the former thundering down south to empty in to the South China Sea, while the Yangtze does a 180 degree turn at Shi Gu and remarkably continues east to drain at the East China Sea. That turn “The First Bend In The Yangtze” has had important repercussions for China’s development – without the bend at Shi Gu, no Chongqing, Wuhan, Nanjing or Shanghai. The fish caught at Shu Ge – a large species of Trout – are reputed to be the tastiest in China. (We tried them, steamed and grilled. They are very good).

The Yangtze is also home to a further 350 species of fish and another 360 amphibians.

While most people know the Yangtze from Shanghai, or even the larger of China’s inland cities, what of its Himalayan beginnings? We followed the River north from Tiger Leaping Gorge, just north of Lijiang, to see how it changed.

The Gorge itself is one of the deepest in the world, with the water flow here pushing through at an astonishing 1.7 million cubic meters a second. Unclimbed mountain peaks tower above at 3,700 meters, while the depth of the water runs to 40 meters. Passage across the river at this point is impossible. Massive submerged rocks from canyon falls smash the boiling water into spray 30 feet high as the river crashes its way through. Rock falls still occur here; a large white scar above denotes the collapse two years ago of half a kilometer of road, pushed down into the river by millions of tones of rock falling onto it. Here, the Yangtze is constantly eroding the scenery.

Further north, the scene is more tranquil. Shu Ge is an old Naxi village, sited at about 2,500 meters in Northern Yunnan. The Naxi are tribal, originally from Northern Tibet, and settled the region (including near by Lijiang) over 2,500 years ago. Their dress and culture remains quite strongly in evidence, and their buildings distinctive. Shu Ge, the first bend of the Yangtze (1^st Bend) was also the site of several battles between the Naxi and both Han Chinese and Tibetans, commemorated here by an ancient stone drum. The area is also home to the rare Golden Snub Nosed Monkey, whose coat was rumored to ward off rheumatism and could only be worn by Imperial officials.

Climbing still further northwards, the road continues to follow the river, mostly at river level as we pass many small villages making their living from the waters. While massive peaks tower above, the Yangtze below provides life giving crops in abundance – Maize, Tobacco, Rice, and orchards of peach, cherry and fields of melons.

Soon however, the scenery begins to change, and higher altitude starts to take effect. The land becomes drier, more sparse, and vegetation is stunted. The river becomes smaller, not so swollen by the rains of the preceding ranges, but still running very fast, and treacherously so.

River crossings here are limited also – not so long ago by using inflated goat skins to navigate across, now empty plastic drums are tied together and used to keep body and soul afloat. The river continues, flowing from the north, as our car climbs higher and higher. Then, at 18,000 feet, with the river far below, we bid it farewell. No roads go where the river has come from.

We can see the valleys in the distance leading, still pressing ever northwards, and we can see the valley floor. But glimpses of the Yangtze become rare, and communities as it tumbles down from ever increasing heights at it’s source even rarer. The Yangtze is born in a wild place – something to ponder as you cross it next time at Shanghai.

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