The Chinese Ski Scene

As skiing catches on in China it is becoming an increasingly viable way to spend a vacation. However, it is important to keep in mind that you should not expect your experience here to be the same as you might have on the European slopes. Conditions here are different, and realizing this will help you enjoy yourself much more, whereas constantly comparing China to the Alps will leave you disappointed.

The first thing to remember about Chinese ski resorts is that they are built for the Chinese skier. Since 99% of Chinese skiers are beginners, planners have designed things accordingly. In addition, every year more and more locals take up the sport. Combine these factors with Chinese entrepreneurial zeal and the result is more than 100 bunny hills that call themselves ski resorts. If you are looking for a real ski outing, most of these will leave you quite frustrated and disappointed. However, there are a few resorts that realize this abundance of beginning skiers will eventually produce a sizable population looking for a real challenge.

The granddaddy of these resorts is Yabuli, located in Heilongjiang Province midway between Harbin and Mudanjiang. Built in the mid 1990s, and the one-time host for the Asian Winter games, Yabuli offers ski runs up to 2.5 km long varying in terrain from beginning-intermediate to advanced, as well as a top to bottom mountain slide (120 RMB extra) that claims to be China’s longest. However, due to a relative lack of snow making capacity compared to the other major resorts, the number of trails can be limited depending on conditions.

The Windmill Hotel is the original hotel on site but a couple of new ones have been added in the last few years. Yabuli is also a training site for the Chinese National Ski Team. However, since they use two of the three peaks that make up Yabuli’s skiable terrain exclusively, and do not share them with them public, Yabuli resort goers are restricted to a single mountain serviced by one aging double chairlift. Furthermore, as the oldest of China’s major resorts, Yabuli is serious need of redevelopment.

While the hotel staff is the friendliest of all the Chinese resorts that we have experienced, the facility has seen better days. Yabuli has actively been seeking an investment partner to redevelop the property. A failed attempt with Intrawest and a pending deal with an unnamed Asian resort operator all look at exploiting the significant potential of this resort. Use of all three peaks and development of the large amount of acreage between the current hotel and the ski slopes could make Yabuli China’s best winter resort again. However, for now, it would only be the best option if you wanted to combine a day of skiing with a few days touring the winter ice festivals of Harbin, something well-worth a visit in its own right.

If Yabuli is on the decrepit end of the spectrum, Wanlong Resort is quite the opposite. Located in Hebei province it is about a four-hour car ride from Beijing. Wanlong features a 2500-foot elevation with a top height of 2110 meters. The mountain has a system of four modern chairlifts, including a new quad, that cover and connect a trail system of six major trails that vary in steepness from wide beginner trails to intermediate levels that are enough to satisfy any cruising skier.

While real advanced terrain is absent, the length and variety of the trails are enough to keep most skiers satisfied for more than a day. For the beginning/intermediate skier, Wanlong has the best overall terrain in all of China. An extensive snow making system assures that most, if not all, of these will be open by December, regardless of weather conditions. A new 100-room hotel at the base of the mountain is the only accommodation outside of Chongli, and it is the recommended choice if you decide to make a trip. Rooms are nice with a choice of beds or sleeping mats. Weekends can be crowded with upwards of 1,000 skiers, so mid-week is the best choice for a last minute ski outing.

The final choice for a real ski resort in China is Beidahu in Jilin province. Beidahu was the 2007 site for the Asian Winter games and is making its bid to be the top Chinese ski resort. Offering skiing on two mountains, Beidahu has the widest array of terrain in China ranging from wide, long beginner runs to gondola serviced advanced top to bottom trails covering 2500’ vertical drops. Extensive snow making capacity here also assures a December visit will not be limited to one or two trails. The resort recently expanded its base lodge hotel facility to 200 rooms of decent quality. The base lodge is located in the hotel, so you literally go from your room to the slopes after stopping at the bottom to purchase your lift ticket and rent your skis.

Finally, there are a few places that receive some buzz, but are not really serious alternatives. The first is Yulong Xue Shan (Jade Dragon Snow Mountain) in Lijiang, Yunnan Province. This is unfortunate as Lijiang would make a fantastic after-ski town and the snow fields on the mountain during the winter are extremely tempting from a distance. However, closer inspection reveals that the fierce sun quickly turns any new snow into frozen crust. What snow that does fall is very unpredictable and generally not the deep powder that you could imagine from a distance. A decade ago, the local mountain operations attempted a ski business but gave it up in 2000. It is just too far south for reliable snow making in the lower elevations and has the aforementioned problems higher up. All this is not to say that a visit to thetop of the mountain on the world’s highest gondola ride is not worth the trip if you like mountains, just forget any thought of skiing it.

Then there are the hard core mountaineering expeditions into the Himalayas (see The Future of Extreme Skiing in China on p. 6). These trips are truly world class adventures for the avid mountaineer. However, we have been unable to find any of these that offer a recreational skiing experience appropriate for the average skier. Taking a week to hike to 6 or 7000 meters just to ski down again is not in the category of recreational skiing.

Finally, there is Ping Tian Resort in Urumqi, Xinjiang province. As of this writing, Ping Tian was still under construction. Located one hour’s drive from downtown Urumqi, Ping Tian is located in the beautiful Tian Shan Mountains. Although this region is one of the driest in China, the Tian Shan Mountains separate two great deserts, the Gobi and the Taklamakan, and wring out virtually all the moisture that comes through this part of China producing significant snowfalls in the winter. While all the other ski areas in China have New England-like terrain, the Tian Shan’s offer terrain similar to the Alps and Rockies. Ping Tian’s 5-year development plan (very Chinese) boasts of lifts, trails, alpine villages and amenities that will be of scope and quality to make any skier in the world feel at home. However, although the resort intended to have some limited skiing open for this winter, it looks like the grand plans fell slightly behind schedule and will they will not open until November 2008 (also very Chinese). The stunning scale and gorgeous backdrop make this something that you should definitely keep your eye on.

Whatever your selection, know that going skiing in China is a unique way to experience modern Chinese culture. From ski lodge lunch menus that include dog meat, to lift tickets that are sold by the hour, it is best to go, as with all places in China, with an open mind while remembering that this is a local interpretation of a western activity. If you want the exact experience you get in Colorado or the Alps, well then you would be best served going to one of those places. However, if you want skiing closer to your adopted home, and a unique experience, then there is much to be enjoyed in China.

Similarly, do not expect an après ski bar scene. Although Wanlong and Yabuli have bars, after skiing, you will be the only one drinking unless you bring your own friends. For dinner meals, Yabuli and Beidahu offer close by off-site options run by locals. Most often these are peasant style meals served on a kang. Food is both cheap and traditional—a treat you are unlikely to get if you go to the more famous resorts of Europe and North America. However, unless you can speak or read Chinese, you need to have a sense of adventure if you decide to get away from the resorts’ restaurant meals.

At the resorts themselves English language service is adequate. Yabuli even provides an English speaking guide as escort. Wanlong has an English language service desk that can help you through any issues that may arise. However, even with this help, expect the skiing transaction to be more like ordering from a Chinese menu. You will need to tell them how many hours you want to purchase, whether you want regular or premium skis (except at Beidahu where all the equipment is premium), and what you need for clothing. Since most customers are new to skiing, ski suit rental is standard, allowing you to pack very little for your trip. On the other hand, keep in mind that the weather is likely to be very cold, so bring whatever warm accessories you have to augment the rentals. Accessories (gloves, goggles, etc.) are sold at each resort, but the prices are high compared to city stores, so it is best to prepare on your own.

Resort Details

Yabuli:

Getting There: Start out with a flight out to Harbin. Prices vary according to your city and the time of year, but you can usually get an idea of the best rates from CTrip(www.English.CTrip.com). From Harbin either take the train to Yabuli (3 hours) where the resort van will meet you and take you to the resort (100 RMB in 2006), or skip the train and have them pick you up at the airport and drive you to the resort (1000 RMB). If you catch an early flight, you c in time to ski that day.

Accommodations and Dining: Windmill Inn has about 100 rooms and a decent Chinese restaurant. All meals including breakfast are additional. As of December 2006 the price per room, per night was 450 RMB. Make reservations directly with the resort at forvevr-xue@hotmail.com. There is a newer hotel at Yabuli, but reservations still seem to go through Windmill. Note that the hotel may require you to wire a cash down payment to secure the reservation. Typically you can deposit money directly into their Chinese account, if you are in-country, for no fee.

Equipment Rentals: Yabuli has several rental locations and not all offer the same equipment. Your best bet is to rent at the base lodge next to the chairlift. This location had the newest equipment as of 2006. However, this situation may have changed, so tell them when you arrive that you want only the premium equipment, and be insistent since the price is the same regardless. The cost of the equipment is included in the lift ticket price. In addition, ski outfits cost 80 RMB per day.

Lift tickets: 45 RMB/ hour (2006) (including equipment rental)

If you would like more information you can find it at: www.YabuliSki.com

Wanlong:

Getting there: You can actually drive from Beijing, and that is the easiest jumping off point from most places around the country. If you have a car, from Beijing follow the Badaling Expressway via Yanjing to Zhangjiakou and then to Chongli, taking a turn after Chongli to the resort.

If you do not have a car, the resort operates a van for a minimum of 3 persons for 160 RMB/person round trip. Alternatively, there is bus service from the People’s Stadium to Zhangjiakou, and then taxi service to the resort. Driving time is about 4 hours. If you leave early in the morning, you can catch a half day of skiing in the afternoon. Zhangjiakou is also reachable by train.

Accommodations and Dining: Wanlong Hotel has 100 rooms and a good, newly-built Chinese restaurant. Prices per night as of this year were quoted at 498 RMB weekdays and 698 RMB weekends. Free broadband internet and western/Chinese breakfast are included. Make reservations directly with the hotel at 313-461-8888. You can also order transportation when you make your reservation.

Equipment Rentals: You will have your choice of regular or premium equipment, all available at the base lodge. While the regular options are decent for beginners, choose the premium if this is not your first time on the slopes. Costs per day are 175 RMB plus 30 RMB for the ski suits. Note that a 500RMB cash deposit is required for the rental.

Lift tickets: 25 RMB/hour

For more information go to:

www.WLSki.com

Beidahu:

Getting there: Changchun City in Jilin Province is the jumping off point, so you need to find air or train transportation there. From the airport or train station you can hire a taxi to take you the 2 hours to the resort for abou 450 RMB. Alternatively, you can take a bus to Jilin and the resort will pick you up. If you take an early flight and a taxi, you can possibly get in a few runs in the afternoon. If you take the cheaper, slower bus, that is unlikely.

Accommodations and Dining: Beidahu Hotel boasts 200 rooms and a surprisingly good Chinese restaurant. Prices per night, midweek, as of this year were 450 RMB. Expect slightly highly rates on weekends. Free broadband internet and breakfast are included. Make reservations directly with the hotel at 432-420-2021 or 23.

Equipment Rentals: Beidahu only offers premium equipment and it is included in the price of the lift ticket. All equipment was recent vintage, good brand name equipment as of last season. Ski suits are separate and cost 25-30

an be at the resort by mid afternoon from nearly anywhere in the country—but notRMB per day. Note that a cash deposit is required.

Lift tickets: 45 RMB/ hour weekday and 52 RMB/hour weekends (including equipment rental)

More information is available at

www.BeidahuSki.com

*****

Finally, since Chinese ski resorts cannot rely on enough natural snow for good skiing, extensive snow-making is integral to their quality. The good news is that the consistent cold conditions in northern China are excellent for snow-making all season long, making December through March a highly reliable period.

Have fun out there and stay warm! CE

For more information go to Chinaexpat.com/ski

Additional resources:

Hidden China and China Ski Tours